Had a great evening recently at the Trattoria da Ubaldo in Lucca.
It’s a quirky place which is found in the street that runs around the back of the perimeter of the anfiteatro (amphitheatre) dating back to Roman times.
I didn’t know what to expect at this restaurant owned by eccentric Frank Zappa look-alike, Ubaldo.
On arrival, I was delighted to be greeted by the host and taken to our table.
The restaurant is full of amusing references to horror. A coffin is suspended over the entrance and there are toys in various states of added or removed limbs, rather like Toy Story as well as skulls on the fridge, upside down Christmas tree and an array of cazzi (look that one up yourselves!). Oh by the way, it is usually full of local diners so you know you are getting a good deal!
Now, this restaurant is very meaty and not really very good for vegetarians but, as a ‘pescatarian’, Ubaldo had made some fish dishes for us to eat.
The first was a fish soup. Delicious and full of flavour and extremely filling. The second was an octopus sauce, spicy and for my tastes a little salty but still good and served with polenta. I also add that while I found this dish salty, my Italian friend found it very spicy and hot.
Now at this stage I was full to the brim but I forced down a pudding of pear and chocolate in a filo pastry.
We washed the meal down with a bottle of Ubaldo wine, and finished with coffee and limoncello.
The price was good for what we ate and yes I would go back.
This is a delicious tomato dish that costs very little, uses up some stale bread and is filling and warming.
- 300 g stale Italian style bread
- 800 g ripe tomatoes or tomato passata
- 1 lt vegetable stock
- 2 garlic cloves
- 1 sprig of basil
- 1 tsp of fine sugar
- Extra virgin olive oil
Thinly slice the bread and bake for a few minutes at 200 degrees on a baking tray with baking paper. Set aside to cool.
Peel the garlic cloves and rub them on the bread and cut the bread into pieces.
If using fresh tomatoes, you should blanch them and remove the skin and seeds. Roughly chop them.
Warm some extra virgin olive oil in a pan and add the garlic used to flavour the bread. Add the toasted bread pieces.
Add the chopped tomatoes or the tomato passata.
Add the stock which should be boiling, so that it covers the toasted bread and ad a pinch of sugar.
Add some chopped basil to taste and cook over a low heat for 40 minutes gradually adding the remaining stock, stirring occasionally.
Remove from the heat when cooked and serve garnished with basil.
This dish is warming in winter but can be served at room temperature in the summer when it is a refreshing snack.
For more flavour you can soften some onion and celery before adding the tomatoes although this as a modern addition to the recipe.
The garlic can be removed if added whole or, you can finely chop it before adding it for a stronger flavour.
After serving olive oil can be added to the bowl to taste before eating.
The traditional Tuscan way of eating this dish is from an earthenware bowl.
Spring is in the air here in Tuscany and life is a buzz..!
Seriously, the moment the sun comes out to visit after winter time, every one is out having a strim.
Here in Italy, well, in the Tuscan countryside, the only way to garden is to use a strimmer. The sun rises and all day long buzzing of keen Italian gardeners cutting back the new growth of the season fills the air, and believe me things can grow really fast here in sunny Tuscany!
The first sign that spring is coming is the appearance of the Mimosa. It is given to ladies on the “Festa della Donna” or International Women’s day. It has tiny yellow fragrant flowers and grows very easily in these parts. Not only is it very common here but it’s also extremely versatile. You can use it to make cakes and drinks. Hmmmm, maybe I’ll let you have a recipe for this in the near future.
We’ve been joining in the spring time gardening fever and have cleared a small piece of land that we have. This land can only be used for planting though and not for animals. We do have another tiny piece that can only be used to tether animals so there’s a great place if the kids start to play up!
Now that we have cleared our land we will wait until the end of April or May time and start our “orto” or veg patch but I won’t be adhering to the local custom of planting certain plants when the moon is at a particular stage in its cycle, that’s far too complicated for us.
We’ll grow the staple tomatoes, both salad and normal, courgettes (zucchini), aubergine, cucumber and peppers. Yummy, can’t wait. There’s nothing more satisfying than just nipping out to the garden to pick a basket full of vegetables and then going back to cook and eat them the same day. Love it.
We have rescued our poor fig tree which was overwhelmed by brambles and elder (sambuco). This plant will be my absolute joy this summer when it should produce two crops of delicious figs. My favourite. I eat the the whole fruit, and very quickly I might add, but Italian friends of mine howl with laughter because they don’t eat the skin. Just the insides but that is a subject for another post in the future.