Well summer is here and my little town is full of visitors and starting to get very lively.
It’s the last day of school before the long 3 month summer holiday snd the tradition is that the kids soak themselves with water before going home.
I love the warm weather particularly the breakfast ritual. Going the bar for a pastry and cappuccino to watch Italian life go by. My town has a Saturday market and so there’s lots of action, friends meeting, cheek kissing, hands frantically moving to embellish the conversation….. Love it all.
At around 12.30 things start to quieten here. Local people are conscious of the 1pm lunch deadline and town empties out. The only ones left at the bar are visitors who lunch there and take in the sunshine.
My cappucino cup is empty. I have chatted and met up with some old friends but I am semi-local so I’m anxious to get back home for my pasta
Having lived in rural Italy for nearly 12 years I have learned never to expect the mundane and that every single day will present something unusual.
I am travelling around Thailand at the moment with a friend who lives mostly in London. The differences in our handling of situations are vast. My friend becomes irate at almost every inconvenience, every little set back and has no patience when a local person is trying to tell us something.
I on the other hand listen and look and of course smile. It then becomes much easier to understand what I am being told.
I am used to strange and unexpected things happening in my life (I do live in the country after all!). Things such as our taxi running out of petrol in the middle of Bangkok at 2 in the morning. My friend was furious and stormed off. I just flagged another one down and started again. The taxi drivers here seem to just cover one area of Bangkok (where I am currently) and so don’t know the other parts of the zone. This infuriated my companion here but as I keep saying, this isn’t London, life here is much more exiting!
Customs and general behaviour are obviously different. Religion, culture. It needs to be respected not compared to “back home”. Living in Italy, even such a short distance from my birth country has taught me that things done a different way aren’t wrong, they are just different and one shouldn’t anger because something is done in a different way. Instead, it is an opportunity to find a fascinating insight of into the culture.
Had a great evening recently at the Trattoria da Ubaldo in Lucca.
It’s a quirky place which is found in the street that runs around the back of the perimeter of the anfiteatro (amphitheatre) dating back to Roman times.
I didn’t know what to expect at this restaurant owned by eccentric Frank Zappa look-alike, Ubaldo.
On arrival, I was delighted to be greeted by the host and taken to our table.
The restaurant is full of amusing references to horror. A coffin is suspended over the entrance and there are toys in various states of added or removed limbs, rather like Toy Story as well as skulls on the fridge, upside down Christmas tree and an array of cazzi (look that one up yourselves!). Oh by the way, it is usually full of local diners so you know you are getting a good deal!
Now, this restaurant is very meaty and not really very good for vegetarians but, as a ‘pescatarian’, Ubaldo had made some fish dishes for us to eat.
The first was a fish soup. Delicious and full of flavour and extremely filling. The second was an octopus sauce, spicy and for my tastes a little salty but still good and served with polenta. I also add that while I found this dish salty, my Italian friend found it very spicy and hot.
Now at this stage I was full to the brim but I forced down a pudding of pear and chocolate in a filo pastry.
We washed the meal down with a bottle of Ubaldo wine, and finished with coffee and limoncello.
The price was good for what we ate and yes I would go back.
This is a delicious tomato dish that costs very little, uses up some stale bread and is filling and warming.
- 300 g stale Italian style bread
- 800 g ripe tomatoes or tomato passata
- 1 lt vegetable stock
- 2 garlic cloves
- 1 sprig of basil
- 1 tsp of fine sugar
- Extra virgin olive oil
Thinly slice the bread and bake for a few minutes at 200 degrees on a baking tray with baking paper. Set aside to cool.
Peel the garlic cloves and rub them on the bread and cut the bread into pieces.
If using fresh tomatoes, you should blanch them and remove the skin and seeds. Roughly chop them.
Warm some extra virgin olive oil in a pan and add the garlic used to flavour the bread. Add the toasted bread pieces.
Add the chopped tomatoes or the tomato passata.
Add the stock which should be boiling, so that it covers the toasted bread and ad a pinch of sugar.
Add some chopped basil to taste and cook over a low heat for 40 minutes gradually adding the remaining stock, stirring occasionally.
Remove from the heat when cooked and serve garnished with basil.
This dish is warming in winter but can be served at room temperature in the summer when it is a refreshing snack.
For more flavour you can soften some onion and celery before adding the tomatoes although this as a modern addition to the recipe.
The garlic can be removed if added whole or, you can finely chop it before adding it for a stronger flavour.
After serving olive oil can be added to the bowl to taste before eating.
The traditional Tuscan way of eating this dish is from an earthenware bowl.